ocean waves

Waves, on the surface of the ocean, generated by wind action. Their dynamics are governed by the influence of gravity and, for short waves of wavelength less than about 20 cm, surface tension. The waves are dispersive, with angular frequency, ω, being given by

where g is the acceleration due to gravity, k = 2π/λ is the wavenumber, λ is the wavelength, and T is the surface tension divided by the water density.