surface gravity wave

A wave that propagates, typically, on the surface of water under the influence of buoyancy forces. In water of uniform depth H, the dispersion relationship is given by squared frequency

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in which k is the wavenumber and g is the acceleration of gravity. In shallow water, when the wavelength is much larger than the fluid depth, the waves are nondispersive; the dispersion relationship is then

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in which phase speed c = (gH)½. In deep water the waves have the dispersion relationship

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